Pearl Terminology

Pearls are unique in the major gemstones in that they are the only ones made by living creatures. They come from oysters.

Most pearls you will see will be cultured pearls. Cultured means that an irritant, typically spherical in shape, as that is the classic shape of pearls, is placed inside the oyster. Over time, the pearl coats the irritant with nacre, which is an semi-transparent and crystalline substance, most often a whitish color. Almost all commercially available pearls are cultured at this time. It is not a bad thing for a pearl to be cultured, so long as it has been given enough time inside the oyster to have a good coating of nacre that will not scratch off too quickly.

Pearls are very fragile and easily damaged. They are typically drilled and glued for settings onto rings, earring and pendants, and of course you have seen pearl necklace strands where they have been knotted into position. Any pearl that has been glued into position may be relatively easy to knock off, so special care must be taken of your pearl jewelry. No pearl jewelry of any kind should be cleaned with an ultrasonic machine or any chemical cleaner not designed specifically to clean pearls.

Natural pearls cost quite a bit more if they are spherical, and much harder to come by. They may come in a range of shapes, which are generally not so expensive.

Pearls are rated on many qualities:

• Luster - Look at how sharp and intense the reflections are in the pearl. The stronger these features are, the more valuable the pearl.
• Orient - What colors are the iridescence of the pearl? Pearls may have all kind of overtones in their color, which may increase its value.
• Color - The classic pearl is white, but they can be shades of pink or black for their main color, with undertones of pink, rose or green. Pearls may also be dyed.
• Cleansliness - What flaws does the pearl have on its surface? It is not uncommon to see a bump here or there on a pearl, although these imperfections can be removed by choosing that spot to drill the pearl.
• Shape - Spherical is the most prized, but other shapes may be valued, particularly if they are symmetrical.
• Size - Measured in millimeters (mm), the larger the pearl is, the more valuable it will be.

When purchasing pearls, if there is more than one, you will also want to consider how well matched the pearls are. This is particularly true of pearl strands, and a well matched strand will cost more than one that is not so well matched. The match should be excellent not only in color, but luster and cleansliness as well.

Black cultured pearls, if naturally occurring, are more valuable than white. Black pearls may also be a result of a dyeing process, however. The most valuable of the black pearls are called South Seas pearls.

Freshwater pearls can be used to create some interesting jewelry. Rather than being spherical, freshwater pearls come in all kinds of shapes, the most common being called rice, as they do resemble grains of cooked rice.

There are also Mabe pearls, which come in a blister shape. Most often, you will see a Mabe pearl in earrings.

Lore

Pearls are associated with purity, virtue and modesty. They are often worn by brides at weddings, and are the anniversary stone for the 3rd and 12th anniversaries. They are the birthstone for June.

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